Both also use hand made linear power supplies with a Furutech FI-06 ( R) NCF. 3.00 (1A in Control-PC and 4D in Audio-PC).
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Both computers use Windows Server 2019 Datacenter Core Mode (17763.737) with RAMdisk as Operational System, JPLAY FEMTO Alternative version, Minority Clean and Audiophile Optimizer v.
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Digital transport: the Control-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310N motherboard, a Intel Core i3-8100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDRMHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and 1TB Samsung 850 Pro SSD the Audio-PC is a dedicated computer with a Gigabyte H310M M.2 2.0 motherboard, a Intel Core i3-9100T processor, an Arctic Alpine 12 Passive Cooler, 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDRMHz, a JCAT Net Card FEMTO and a JCAT USB Card FEMTO. DAC Ayre QB-9 192/24 + Furutech FI-03 ( R) + Synergistic Research Orange Fuse (with Electro-Harmonix 6SN7 Gold-Pin tubes and Synergistic Research Orange Fuse) and Audio Research VS115 (with Tung-Sol KT120 and Svetlana 6H30 tubes and AMR Gold Fuse) It'd be subject to volume and what not getting out of sync even with the remote connection to the 7012 and I'd lose the benefits of matrixed front wides with "stereo" music (more depth/width).- Speakers KEF Reference 203/2 with spikes I'd have to remove my old laserdisc player to get the rack space needed. I suppose it would be simplest to connect it for front wides and see how it goes for now (how long it holds up). The question is will it last or will it start acting up again to be even worth the bother. Or I suppose I could use it in my upstairs setup. I could hook it up in tandem to get true discrete front wides for Atmos and Neural X support (and if I wanted to mount four more ceiling speakers, I could have 10 speakers on the ceiling using "tops" in addition to the current front/rear heights and extracted top middle (via Pro Logic).
The question now is what to do with it since I'm using the SR7012 now in the home theater.
(Maybe the Maltese Falcon that arrived today brought me luck? ) I put it back together and tested it again and it's still working. Whether it was the loose board or something moved while bringing it upstairs to a table where I could take it apart (didn't do anything to jar it so I don't see how), I don't know. I plugged it in before starting to take the HDMI board out and oddly enough, it's working fine again. All the solder joints and cable connections I could see were fine. Short of taking all the daughter boards out (a royal PITA by the looks of it), I couldn't see all the speaker terminals. The only thing I could find was one of the sub boards had come loose (screws holding it in place had loosened up quite a bit and it was kind of rocking back and forth at the least touch/movement. I finally opened up my malfunctioning (blinking orange light indicating short or similar) Marantz SR7010 (it's out of warranty so I figured what the hell).
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